When you think of Mark Twain, images of the Mississippi River, mischievous boys, and sharp-witted American humor likely come to mind. But for a brief, fascinating period, Twain found himself far from his familiar American landscapes—he was living in Berlin, the so-called "Chicago of Europe."
From October 1891 to March 1892, Twain and his family resided in the German capital, escaping financial woes and seeking relief for his wife’s health concerns. What he found was a city that both baffled and fascinated him—a metropolis of ambition, order, and relentless modernization. Twain, ever the sharp observer, had plenty to say about Berlin’s quirks, from its military parades to its befuddling street names.
A City of Contrasts: From a ‘Rag-Pickers' Paradise’ to Royal Lodgings
Twain’s Berlin experience started off on the wrong foot. The family initially settled in Tiergarten at Körnerstraße 7, but Twain found the neighborhood unpleasant, famously calling it a "rag-pickers’ paradise." Whether it was the noise, the crowds, or just his mood, he quickly grew dissatisfied.
Not one to settle for discomfort, he and his family relocated to the more prestigious Hotel Royal at Unter den Linden 3, right in the heart of the city’s social and political action. Here, Twain had a front-row seat to the energy of Berlin, mingling with intellectuals, writers, and politicians.
Twain’s Brush with German Aristocracy
Twain wasn’t just a passive observer—he became part of Berlin’s elite social scene. He attended exclusive salons, hobnobbed with diplomats, and even dined with Emperor Wilhelm II himself. Twain, always the satirist, must have been amused by the rigid Prussian formalities and grand military displays that Berliners took so seriously.
One anecdote suggests that Twain was charmed but slightly puzzled by German aristocratic customs. In one of his letters, he humorously complained about the exhausting social calendar, saying, "You can waste so much precious time being polite in Germany."
Lost in Berlin: Twain vs. the German Language
If Twain had a nemesis in Berlin, it was undoubtedly the German language. He had long been fascinated—and frustrated—by German grammar, famously writing the essay The Awful German Language, in which he lamented, "Every noun has a gender, and there is no sense or system in the distribution."
Berlin only reinforced this struggle. He was particularly irritated by the city’s excessively long street names. Trying to navigate Berlin's thoroughfares, he joked, was like trying to read a novel:
"I cannot find my way anywhere in this city, for the names of the streets are so long that they have to be abridged on the corners, and the fragments do not furnish the slightest clue as to where I am."
Berlin’s Confounding Public Transport
Another source of amusement (and mild torment) for Twain was Berlin’s complex public transportation system. Used to the slower, more straightforward travel of America’s river towns, he found himself bewildered by Berlin’s sprawling tramways, omnibuses, and bustling carriages.
At one point, he admitted, "I feel lost in Berlin." The city’s rapid pace and relentless efficiency seemed at odds with Twain’s more laid-back, contemplative personality.
The 'Chicago of Europe'
Despite his occasional frustrations, Twain couldn’t help but admire Berlin’s modernity. He was so struck by the city's rapid expansion and industrial energy that he dubbed it “The Chicago of Europe” in a piece for the Chicago Daily Tribune in April 1892. He marveled at its efficiency and development, writing:
"Berlin has surprised me in the highest degree. It is a new city, and yet it has a character which is full of strength and ambition. In many ways, it reminds me of Chicago—restless, energetic, and always building."
Mark Twain on Berlin: The Best-Governed City in the World?
Writing in the Chicago Tribune after his stay in 1891-1892, he marveled at the city’s meticulous bureaucracy, stating that “method and system are observable on every hand” and that Berlin enforced its rules fairly—without favoritism, whether for the poor or the powerful.
One aspect of Berlin life that Twain found strikingly efficient was the strict registration system (Anmeldung), a requirement still familiar to newcomers today. “The head of this large family,” Twain noted, referring to Berlin’s administration, “knows the names of its several members, and where the said members are located, and when and where they were born.”
What he appreciated less, however, were the German taxes. A hefty Prussian tax bill of 48 Marks—loaded with church fees and a steep foreigner’s income tax—prompted him to quip that he would stay “until your taxes drive me out again.” Yet, for all his complaints, Twain had nothing but praise for Berlin’s police force. Their unwavering discipline and efficiency, he joked, meant that “if there were an earthquake in Berlin, the police would take charge of it and conduct it in that sort of orderly way that would make you think it was a prayer meeting.”
A Tramp in Berlin: Twain’s Legacy in the City
Though he spent only five months in Berlin, Twain’s reflections on the city remain a compelling snapshot of a rapidly changing Europe at the end of the 19th century. His essays and letters from this period reveal a mixture of amusement, admiration, and occasional exasperation.
For those eager to dive deeper into his German adventures, the book A Tramp in Berlin compiles his witty observations, shedding light on his time in the Kaiser's capital.
Mark Twain’s Berlin: Traces of a Lost Era
If you’re hoping to visit the places where Mark Twain lived and spent time during his stay in Berlin from 1891 to 1892, you might be disappointed—his former apartment and the Hotel Royal have long since vanished, along with the cafés and restaurants he once enjoyed. The only major landmark still standing from his time is the Brandenburg Gate, which he could see from his residence on Unter den Linden—a monument that was already a century old when Twain gazed upon it. However, while physical traces of his Berlin days are scarce, his legacy remains woven into the city’s fabric. A commemorative plaque now marks the site of his former flat at Körnerstraße 7 in Tiergarten, and his name endures in several locations across Berlin. You can stroll down Mark-Twain-Straße in Hellersdorf, visit the Mark Twain Library in Marzahn-Hellersdorf, or stop by the Mark-Twain-Schule, an international elementary school in Reinickendorf, not far from the former Tegel Airport.
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